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Hi all,

OK, here goes...what Karen looks for....neither right nor wrong...but my observations.

Yes, I can see a lot in a puppy before it is even dry, but I find that for my lines it is about the 7-8 week 
mark that I want to really take a good look.  What I see then will hold true as the dogs matures.

First, I get the puppies running and playing until they drop over in a sound sleep!  Then I position them 
on their side and start "measuring"; I simply use my fingers as I find this accurate enough. 

I measure the length of the "shoulder" from the top of the scapula to the forward point of the shoulder; 
note that this is NOT the length of the scapula itself and but is used as a reference length.  Keeping 
my finger gap stationary, I rotate downward to measure the length from the point of the shoulder to the 
back of the elbow.  I want this measurement (the upper arm) to be equal to the length of the shoulder, 
not shorter.  If these lengths are equal, the angle should be "proper" for providing good reach and good 
cushioning of the joint.  Too short an upper arm brings the front down straighter and decreases the 
shock absorbtion capability; this can make a dog who is more prone to front end injury.  Next I shift 
down again and measure the lower arm (elbow to wrist); this should be equal (or preferably) slightly 
longer than the shoulder measurement.  If this measurement is shorter than my reference length, I would 
hold a high suspicion that this is going to be a short-legged dog.

Now we move to the rear of the puppy.  I again take my reference (shoulder) length and match that up to 
the length of the pelvis.  This is from the point of the hip to the very back of the pelvis.  To find the point 
of the hip if it's not obvious, run your fingers up the front edge of the dog's thigh; the tip of the bone at the 
top of the thigh is the front of the pelvis.  The pelvis should be equal to the shoulder length, again not 
shorter.  Rotate down with your measurement to compare the length of the thigh, from the back of the 
pelvis to the front of the knee; again, this should be equal to your reference length.  Down again to measure 
from the front of the knee to the back of the hock joint; this should be equal (or slightly longer) than your 
reference (should equate to the lower arm on the front).  Now, check the length of the croup/placement 
of the tail on the pelvis. Lift the tail so it is perpendicular to the pelvis and note where it attaches; this should 
be in the middle third of the length of the pelvis, ideally close to the middle of that region.

The length of the pelvis acts as a hinged fulcrum from which rearward extension occurs; a short "hinge" 
reaches it's end range sooner than a longer one and the dog has to "pop up" in the rear to complete it's 
rear stride.  In the trot, you will see this dog sway it's back to attempt a longer rear motion.  A short 
croup/high tailset also acts as a limiting factor in this movement and you will see a similar result.  A 
short length from the knee to the hock joint straightens the angle of the leg relative to the ground and 
also inhibits rearward drive.

Back length (point of the shoulder to the back of the pelvis) should be slightly longer than the height 
of the dog (from top of the withers to the ground). Some people use actual ratios which are good; I'm just 
not that accurate.  Within the range of "good length", theory is this.  A more square dog will move 
well in the lope because it doesn't have as much back length to lift and carry forward with each stride; 
if too short, will tend to interfere with itself in the trot as there is not enough separation between the front 
and rear to clear.  It may also have less flexibility in the spine which inhibits tuck and extension of the 
back in the fast gallop.  A longer backed dog will be a good trotter as it has the space to move it's legs 
under the body without interference; it's back will also have more flexibility to tuck and extend in the 
gallop.  In the gallop, the longer-backed dog has more of a load to lift and thrust with each stride, so 
MAY tire more easily.  (Think of carrying a load of firewood close to your body and then carrying it out at 
arms length.)  Too long a back will have weak suspension (ie. like a bridge), may look swayed and may 
become a literal sore point under working conditions.  So ideally, a dog who is slightly longer than tall 
will have the clearance in the trot without having excessive "load" in the gallop.  Makes a versatile dog.

Head size should be proportional to the dog, but should NOT be heavy.  While a big head may look 
impressive on a male in the show ring, it has no place if a dog is going to be asked to be a sled dog 
(strongly stated opinion there, eh?).  Again, think of that piece of firewood held at arm's length from your 
body; now, trot down the street holding the wood out there.  Tired?  Do it again at a run....every time the 
dog lands on it's front, the weight of it's head adds to the impact on it's shoulders.  Heavy head makes the 
dog more prone to fatigue and front end injury.

Depth of the chest should be slightly less than the length of leg from elbow to the ground; this means that 
the bottom of the chest (not the fur) will be at or slightly above the height of the elbow.  (Said conversely, 
the length of the leg below the bottom of the chest should be slightly longer than the vertical depth from the 
withers to the bottom of the ribcage.)  Shape of the torso should have a flatness to the sides of the ribcage; 
this allows the front legs to glide along the sides without distorting the gait.  A round ribcage will tend to 
flare the legs outward and the dog will have to move in a side-to-side rolling fashion to bring the legs toward 
center as they do in the trot; this gives a movement more like a bulldog than a Siberian.

From the front, the chest should be proportional to the dog but never wide; a narrower chest gives more 
efficient movement in harness.  Again, the dog should single-track without significant rolling motion in the trot.

I watch puppies and dogs for agility, for lightness of movement, for endurance according to their age and 
development.  But the proof of the pudding is once they are trained and conditioned to harness work.

I look for all of these things as I assess a puppy or an adult.  With the puppy, they are indicators; in the adult, 
they are the final product.  (Assessing for tightness or for changes caused by injury are another subject.)  I am 
looking for things that say a particular dog would not be happy doing the job I would ask of him/her rather than 
looking for that one pup who can.  I am looking for the things that determine WHAT I would reasonably ask of 
a dog who runs for me.  No body is ideal.  If I know what the physical limitations may be, I can ask the right 
things of that dog without injuring it.

Again, these are my ways of looking at functional structure in the Siberian.  The dog should be fast and efficient 
in harness; nothing said that the goal of the "origins of the breed" were to come in last behind the storm or last 
to the now empty dinner table.

Wordy enough for one edition! 

Respectfully submitted.